A small history of watches and several tips for buying the perfect watch. Prospex LX SNR031, 44.8mm black super-hard coated titanium case, black silicone strap. Japan’s foremost watchmaker started as a jewellery shop in 19th-century Ginza, specialising in clocks. Now it’s famous for making outstanding watches at every price point, using entirely in-house processes, right down to concocting lubricating oils. Its new Prospex LX line is a three-part sports watch range encompassing land, air and sea, nodding to its Professional Diver’s watch from 1968; a fan favourite. Combining heritage looks with modern build methods, the Prospex LX SNR031 dive watch is a collaboration with the industrial supercar designer Ken Okuyama, noted for his work with Ferrari. Technical notes include a substantial 44.8mm case, a 5R spring drive movement, a 72-hour power reserve, water resistance to 300m and a titanium case that’s been “Zaratsu” (blade) polished, achieving that mirrored finish — just look at the light dance off it.
Let’s move on to the under 1000 USD category. With its big cushion case, knobby bezel and simple dial, the SRP777 is a faithful homage to the original Seiko 6309 “Turtle” from the 1970s and ’80s. But unlike the Turtle, the new watch is water resistant up to 200 meters (the old one was only rated for 150) and has an automatic movement with hand-winding capabilities. It’s a fantastic option for those who want the look of a vintage diver, but the capabilities and reliability of a modern watch. Want a new mechanical chronograph under $500? The Seagull 1963 is pretty much your only option. That’s no concession, though. It uses a hand-wound mechanical movement made by Tianjin Seagull Watch Co. (one of China’s best movement manufacturers), housed in a compact and authentically sized 38mm stainless steel case. When Citizen launched its mind-blowingly thin (less than 3mm) Eco-Drive One in 2016, it captivated watch enthusiasts, but with a price tag over $2,000, it was steeply priced. At under $500, and with a still crazy-thin case thickness of 4.7mm, the Stiletto is a fantastic compromise, given its sleek proportions and classy guilloche dial. Of course, that solar-powered quartz movement is also a gem, making battery changes a thing of the past.
Chunky, luxury watches don’t suit everyone’s style, but this sleek-looking beauty carries the elegance and swagger needed to stand out from the crowd. The steel blue-like dial with its mix of distinctive leaf hands and Roman numerals exudes an air of class appropriate to a watch brand founded in Geneva in 1830. At 40mm it’s on the upper end of the medium size scale. Strap it on your wrist and see why celebs like David Duchovny and Kiefer Sutherland are huge fans. Chotovelli, a brand founded in the 1920s in Turin, derived and inspired by Italian aviators, is a name you probably haven’t heard before. Which just means it qualifies as a ‘find’. For the price, this handsome oversized chrono is by far the biggest bargain on the list, and the opportunity it affords to give each admirer a mini history lesson is just icing on the cake. The saddle leather strap will only get better with age, but caveat emptor: at 47mm, this is one big watch.
WatchNerd is your go-to virtual “watch guy.” He has all the latest information about the best luxury watches and will give you his honest opinion without any gimmicks. He has nothing to win or lose from you buying any particular watch, and is only interested in helping you find a watch that you love. He’s always been a super smart guy, and only makes a decision or offers advice when he’s confident he has 110% of the necessary information. However, he also genuinely cares about the advice he gives and wants to make sure he’s helpful — never overbearing or pushy. He gets his information from a wide range of sources, staying on top of the latest trends but also relying on hard numbers. He knows there’s a lot of crappy advice out there, and always triple checks his informative before giving his opinion. See more info on Watch Enthusiasts Blog.