30 03 19

Purchasing a leather suit is not a low cost action, always better to study the market a little before. Cheaper jackets (like cheaper blazers and suits) will usually use lower grade synthetic linings in the entire garments. These linings often shred and tear easily, feel really dry and don’t breathe well. These cheap synthetics are often the first things to fall apart over time. Pricier jackets will often have two different linings – one for the body and one for the sleeve. Body linings will often be higher quality synthetic, warmer cottons, sometimes insulated and quilted.

Cut and Fit – Because low priced jackets are so cheap, brands have to sell more to make it worthwhile. To do this, they design a jacket that can fit as many people as they can. This means that low priced jackets will be more generously cut, which can be unflattering on a lot of people. Details – General rule in design: More details = more complicated to make = more expensive to produce. High-end jackets will have more interesting details like seams, cuts, pockets, zipper details, etc. Zipper quality – Higher end leather jackets will use heavy-duty, high-quality zippers that can stand up to all the pulling, they’re also buttery smooth to use. My personal favorite high-end zippers are RiRi, and are roughly 10-15x more expensive than standard YKK zippers.

The first contemporary-looking style arrived in 1928. A Manhattan raincoat maker, Irving Schott, designed a motorcycle jacket for Harley Davidson. Dubbed the ‘Perfecto’, after his favourite cigar, this leather jacket was built to protect riders from the elements and accidents. During World War II the flight jacket became known as the bomber, and was prized for its warmth having been designed for wear in open cockpits.

A center front zipper jacket, traditionally with a band collar, with very minimal design details. Classic racer jacket pockets are zippered. The simplicity of this jacket make it an extremely easy and versatile jacket to wear. Sometimes referred to as a “flight jacket” or “bomber”, the A2 is a originally a military designed pilot’s leather jacket. The center front zipper is often covered by a placket for added protection against the wind. Signature details include ribbed cuffs and hems, along with two large front flap pockets. Traditionally insulated to keep pilots warm at high altitudes, A2s are usually cropped at the hips to make it easy to wear when sitting. Some will often have fur collars, which is a detail from the newer G1 model.

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There are as many price points as there are jackets. Generally, you get what you pay for, but while in some cases you pay for the name, the price usually comes down to the quality and type of leather used. “A good quality leather garment is often supple and soapy to the touch,” says Joslyn Clarke, head of design for heritage outerwear brand Grenfell. “Well-designed leather garments should not have unnecessary seams, but should look like a cloth garment in its seaming. Cheaply made leather garments will often have many seams to enable the maker to use as much of the skin as possible when the piece is being cut out.”

For an edgier and more gothic lean, try a fencing jacket with its asymmetrical zip and high collar (Rick Owens has made such turtle-necked silhouettes a staple of his collections). Elsewhere, if you want something a little longer, try a fatigue jacket like this belted number from Belstaff. However, there are very few circumstances in which you should you be looking at anything longer than this, unless you want to look like an extra from The Matrix. While pretty much every jacket under the sun has been recreated in leather at this point — from all-American trucker jackets to tailored trench coats — we’d encourage you to go with something versatile. Given how much money you’re likely to invest, you want a piece you can work into your outfits day in, day out. A black leather Perfecto-style jacket will go with pretty much anything you can throw at it, from sweats to suits, making it a great place to start for first-timers.

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Those with a thinner shape will benefit from a belted or elasticated waistband, as it will accentuate the shoulders and suggest a broader torso. Conversely, the bulkier among you should avoid anything that will stretch around your contours or make you look more round. By following these tips you should avoid most of the major style crimes committed by leather-sporting novices. Just remember: leather is incredibly difficult to tailor or get altered, so you need a good fit from day one. Always try before you buy and don’t ever order online unless you know you can easily return it — a retailer that offers free shipping and returns would be ideal.

Shearling: This is skin from a recently sheared sheep that has been tanned and dressed with the wool left on. It has a suede surface on one side and a clipped fur surface on the other. It can be worn with either surface out. Ostrich: This is usually farmed in South Africa and is distinctive for its pattern of bumps. The intricate and specialised production process makes it an expensive material. Ponyskin: This is often a misnomer – the “ponyskin” used by designers is, in reality, more often calfskin. If in doubt, you should check before buying.

Having Motorcycle Leather that fits, is incredibly important. Your Leathers must be comfortable, the tighter one will limit your movement, and the loose one fails to keep the armor in place. With the years of experience, we know how to make the perfect fit motorcycle leather garments.

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